The Royal Kasubi Tombs
Long before Uganda had borders, Buganda had a king. The kingdom, centred on the hills and lake shores around Kampala, is one of the oldest and largest in the region, and its traditions are very much alive. The king is the Kabaka, the language is Luganda, and clan identity runs through family life, ceremony and etiquette.
Kasubi Tombs. The spiritual heart of the kingdom is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the burial place of four Kabakas. Its centrepiece, the Muzibu Azaala Mpanga, is a vast domed building of thatch and reeds. A fire destroyed it in 2010, and it has since been rebuilt using traditional methods and is open to visitors again. Visits are usually guided, and you are asked to remove your shoes before going in.
Bulange, the Royal Mile and Mengo Palace. On Mengo Hill, the Bulange houses the Lukiiko, Buganda's parliament, along with the Kabaka's offices. From its gate a straight road, the Royal Mile, runs to the gate of the Lubiri, the Kabaka's palace, lined with trees that each represent a clan. Tours of the palace cover royal regalia, drums and artefacts, and also some difficult chapters from Uganda's turbulent past.
Beyond the city. The Kabaka's Lake, dug in the time of Kabaka Mwanga, lies close to the palace. A short drive out of Kampala you can visit the Wamala Tombs, a quieter royal burial site, and the Naggalabi-Buddo coronation site, which tells the story of how the kingdom began. Ssezibwa Falls and other heritage sites reward those with more time.
Culture to look for. Bark cloth, made by hand from tree bark, is part of Buganda's heritage and recognised by UNESCO. At ceremonies you will see men in the kanzu and women in the gomesi or busuuti, and greetings in Luganda are warmly received.
A good day: start at the Bulange in the morning, walk the Royal Mile to the palace, see the Kabaka's Lake, then finish at Kasubi in the afternoon. A guide who knows Buganda's history makes the clan symbols and royal customs come alive. Dress modestly, follow the guidance at sacred places, and ask before taking photos.
